28 Oct How to Evaluate Plant-Based Leather: Abrasion, Flexing and Tensile Testing

A leather alternative can look perfect on the sample table and still fail in use, cracking at a fold, wearing through on a seat bolster or tearing at a seam. Laboratory testing is how you find out before production. This guide explains the three core mechanical tests (abrasion, flexing and tensile strength) plus a few others every buyer should ask about.

1. Abrasion resistance

What it measures: how well the surface resists wear from rubbing.

How it is tested: the most common method is the Martindale test, in which the sample is rubbed against a standard abradant in a moving pattern for a set number of cycles, then checked for wear, colour change or holes. Relevant standards include ISO 17076-2 for leather and ISO 5470-2 for coated fabrics. The Taber abrader (ISO 17076-1, ISO 5470-1) is another widely used method.

How to read it: results are given as the number of cycles before a defined level of damage. The required number depends heavily on the application: a handbag face needs far less than an automotive seat or contract upholstery.

2. Flex resistance

What it measures: whether the material cracks or the coating separates after being bent repeatedly, as happens at the toe of a shoe, the fold of a bag or the edge of a seat.

How it is tested: the Bally flexometer folds the sample repeatedly (ISO 5402-1 for leather; ISO 32100 is a related method for coated fabrics). For footwear uppers, ISO 17694 is common. Tests can be run at room temperature and, for cold-climate products, at low temperature.

How to read it: results are reported as the number of flexes the sample survived without visible cracking, often in tens of thousands of cycles.

3. Tensile strength and elongation

What it measures: how much force the material can take before breaking, and how far it stretches.

How it is tested: a strip is pulled apart on a universal testing machine (ISO 3376 for leather; ISO 1421 for coated fabrics). Testing is usually done along both the length and width of the roll, because the backing fabric often behaves differently in each direction.

How to read it: look at both strength (N or N/mm²) and elongation at break (%). High elongation helps with lasting and moulding; too much can mean products lose shape.

Other tests worth requesting

• Tear strength (e.g. ISO 3377-2): critical where the material is stitched or under seam load.
• Colour fastness to rubbing (ISO 11640): checks whether colour transfers onto clothing or other surfaces.
• Light fastness (ISO 105-B02): important for automotive and furniture near windows.
• Hydrolysis or ageing resistance: shows how the material holds up in heat and humidity over time.
• Coating adhesion: checks whether the top layers stay bonded to the backing.
• Sector-specific tests: flammability, fogging and emissions for automotive; ignition resistance for upholstery.

Tips for buyers

• Ask for reports from an accredited laboratory and check which standard and conditions were used.
• Compare materials tested to the same standard; results from different methods are not comparable.
• Test the exact construction you will buy: thickness, backing and finish all change results.
• Agree the targets with your own quality team or end customer before sampling.

Terratan™ is finished and tested for properties including tensile strength, flex and abrasion. You can request the technical data sheet and evaluation samples; see how to access Terratan for your products. For certification and compliance, read what buyers should know about testing, certifications and compliance.

Work with Terratan

Terratan™ is Bharat Biomaterials’ plant-based leather alternative, made from agricultural residue and produced in continuous rolls in India. Explore the material, read about our sustainability approach, or contact our team to request the technical data sheet and samples.